In textile design, tailoring, and fashion, the “Nahttypen” (what in German is called the “types of seams”) is the set of seam constructions employed to Sewing two or more pieces of cloth together. Although the thread itself might appear to be just a plain connector, its use—how it holds fabric together, how it’s supported, and even how it’s covered up or revealed—can create or destroy the durability, usability, and aesthetics of a garment or product. Whether you’re a budding seamstress, a fashion student, or a textile engineer, understanding the different types of seams is essential.
What Are Seams, and Why Do They Matter?
A seam is the stitching line in which two pieces of cloth are joined together. And it doesn’t sound difficult, but seams are not. Depending on what the article or garment is going to do—whether it’s going to be worn hard, be flexible, or be stylish—the type of seam will vary significantly. A good seam can make a garment last or have it fall apart prematurely.
The type of seam impacts
Strength: Certain seams are constructed to withstand tension and stress.
Flexibility: Others are constructed to stretch or for movement wear.
Appearance: Certain seams are concealed for a streamlined appearance, and others are for show.
Production cost: Easy seams may be faster to sew but not as strong.
Let’s discuss now the most common types of seams, or Nahttypen, used in sewing.
1. Plain Seam (Geradstichtnaht)
This is the simplest and most common seam. Two pieces of material are positioned right sides together and stitched along the edge. Seam allowances are pressed.
Use: Casual wear such as shirts, dresses, and skirts.
Strengths: Simple and fast to sew.
Weaknesses: Not the strongest for stress points; can be reinforced.
2. French Seam (Französische Naht)
A French seam conceals the raw edges of the fabric in the seam. It is created by sewing the fabric together wrong sides, then trimming the seam allowance and turning, and sewing again right sides together.
Use: Lightweight, delicate materials like silk or chiffon.
Advantages: Clean, elegant finish; conceals raw edges.
Disadvantages: Requires more time and accuracy.
3. Flat-Felled Seam (Kappnaht)
This is a very strong and resilient seam, which is commonly used in working uniforms and jeans. It consists of folding the seam allowances over and stitching them down flat.
Use: Denim, sportswear, outdoor equipment.
Advantages: Very robust; no frayed edges.
Disadvantages: Bulky on heavy fabrics; time-consuming.
4. Double-stitched Seam (Doppelt genähte Naht)
As the name says, the seam has two rows of stitching, usually parallel to one another. It adds additional strength.
Use: Knit tops and bottoms, underclothing.
Benefits: Quick and clean; provides stretch.
Drawbacks: Has to be serged; can’t be used on all fabrics.
5. Overlock Seam (Overlocknaht or Versäuberungsnaht)
An overlock seam is completed by using a serger (overlock machine) to cut and sew the fabric at the same time. It is primarily utilized for finishing raw edges.
Use: Sportswear, streetwear, knit garments.
Benefits: Quick and clean; provides stretch.
Disadvantages: Must be serged; cannot be used on all fabrics.
6. Zigzag Seam (Zickzacknaht)
A zigzag stitch may be taken along the edge of a seam allowance to avoid fraying. It’s a finishing operation done on seam edges rather than a form of seam.
Use: Fraying prevention in woven fabrics.
Pros: Simple to perform on most sewing machines.
Cons: Neater and more professional-looking than other finishes.
7. Lapped Seam (Überlappungsnaht)
This seam overlaps two fabric pieces and lays them flat with a stitch. This is often applied in leather or where standard seams are too bulky.
Use: Technical fabrics, leather accessories.
Benefits: No folding or pressing required; flat lying.
Drawbacks: Notice that unless very carefully, topstitched.
8. Bound Seam (Einfassnaht)
With this method, the seam edge is concealed using a piece of fabric or bias tape. It is protective and decorative.
Application: Unlined clothing, high-end clothing, coats.
Advantages: Intelligent, business-like appearance.
Disadvantages: Extremely labor-intensive and calls for accurate cutting and stitching.
Selecting the Ideal Seam Type
Selecting the seam type is based on several factors:
Type of fabric—Thin fabrics might need to have the seams contained, such as the French seam, but thick fabrics will have no problem with flat-felled seams.
Function—Clothing that must be durable or provide stretch demands specialty seams.
Cost—Some seams are quicker and less expensive to produce.
Aesthetic—The seam can be a part of the appearance of a completed garment.
When industrial applications are involved, the selection of seams also influences the speed of production and the durability of garments. Designers and producers collaborate in deciding on the most appropriate seam type for a particular use.
Nahttypen’s knowledge is greater than sewing know-how—it’s connecting technical know-how and design knowledge. The proper seam can make a garment more wearable, durable, and beautiful. For textile experts, designers, and seamstresses, understanding seam types is essential to producing high-quality apparel and textile products. In sewing a plain dress or building a hard-wearing jacket, the seam type employed will make more of an impact than you can ever tell.
